Hei, 87+blokkene skal vist ha 7 ribber mot 3 ribber i de tidligere blokkene.
87+ modellene bruker 42mm veiv mot 40mm i 3 ribbers blokka
i følge amund så er det en kjølefeil i 3ribbers blokka. Dette gjør at sylinder nummer 3 striper seg og dermed mister kompresjon.
info fra
http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock2.htm
There are basically two types of 4AGE blocks; The ones that are just single cam blocks used for twin cam work and have three ribs on the side, and the small port, 4AGZE, and 20v blocks which have seven ribs. The three rib blocks can only been overbored a small amount, roughly 1mm or 0.040", (82mm total) and the seven rib blocks can go a bit further to 2mm or 0.080". (83mm total) An important note though is that the bigger the bore and/or the more power the engine is making, the more blow-by you'll be getting. I doubt if it's worth boring the block out to try to get more capacity for that reason.
The 20v blocks are reputed to be a slightly different shape around the flywheel area, so that a 16v sump won't bolt straight on. But with some small mods they can be made to fit, I've heard.
The seven rib blocks on the small port 4AGE's also have an oil return pipe on the right-rear from the back of the head. The 4AGZE's & 20v's have the 'bump' in the block for that hole, but it's solid cast metal there instead.
Another good feature of the seven rib blocks is that they have an oil-squirter system that pumps oil onto the bottom of the pistons, thus helping cool them.
There's no other differences between all the blocks.
Så vist du er ute etter mere hester så bør du vurdere 87+blokka for holdbarhet i det lange løpet. 85+ blokk og 87+topp passer fint det! Men det som hadde vert morro var om du skaffet deg en 7a-fe blokk og bygde deg en 7a-ge. en 4a-ge med 1.8l og ja alle 4age topper fra tidlig 16v til sein 20v passer på den blokka, men det spørs hvor mye arbeid en vil legge inn i å bygge motoren. Send meg PM så kan jeg sende deg mer info

har blitt en del lesing om kveldene... og denne posten tar sikkert tid å lese
